So IF you have the K96 relay version of Fuel Pump Control, Check those fuses FIRST. Power is supplied by K96 relay via White/Blue wire to Pin #2 of Connector X638. 2) Fuel Pump controlled via the EKPS Module mounted behind the rear seat squab as shown in the 2nd ISTA Screenprint. In THAT configuration, the Module (A13663) is powered by fuse F70 Every so often when the car is parked it would start flashing its hazard lights, same lights that flash when we lock or unlock the car, and would keep flashing for sometime. It does not make a difference if the car is locked or unlocked. Also the battery keeps draining every few days. I bought a brand new battery but that did not fix the problem. after that before assuming anything, This means battery charger or tender for. about 5 plus hours. With a surface charge the battery can read around 13 volts when fully charged. but on the first start it will generally fall to 12.6 on a good battery . These cars genrally can have funny jump reactions. Drives: 2012 MB ML350 Bluetec. Join Date: Aug 2009. Location: Central FL. iTrader: ( 10) Low Battery - Throwing All Sorts of Codes! So I know my 2007 335 has an old battery and I've had to trickle charge it to keep if from going completely dead, but today when I started it, it had a slow crank like the battery was near dead but started right away. Solved. MAP sensor/ pressure sensor. I’ve never seen a fault code like this. Charge plausibility, diagnosis, cold-start strategy bank 2. ISTA prompted me to run a test on MAF (MAP sensors) , and throttle actuators. MAF / intake pipe tested OK. Both actuators appear to have load faults. I did not have battery charging during this process. . Low voltage on the battery (stand alone test) could be a bad cell. 1 bad cell could stop the battery from charging. Low voltage with the car running (if it doesnt climb or exceed the battery voltage). Bad alternator or voltage regulator (But the regulator is built into the alternator). I do not recommend the 'disconnect test' where you remove iTrader: ( 0) CAS KL30G relay sleep delay, high battery drain. After changing out my voltage regulator because of higher than normal voltage, and apparent 'diode' fault - I'm now experiencing a pretty hefty battery drain for about an hour until the 30G relay 'sleeps'. Relatively new battery, swapped out in November, registered with the car. I drove out in the E39 with a freshly-charged battery in the trunk. I dropped the battery into Kugel, and with some coaxing, the car started up. One of the basic electrical checkups you can do in a car is to use a multimeter to measure the resting voltage—the voltage across the battery terminals with the car off. It should be about 12.6 volts. If it's >14V, then current is going to your battery as the battery voltage is less than 14V. If the cable is warm, then you have excess current going to the battery. This assumes your alternator is working normally. If this cable is warm without the engine running, you have some parasitic current draw. 2007 328i had a few battery replacements. Low Battery indicator comes on everytime I start the car. After driving for 10-15 min and stop and start it again the problem go's away. However when sitting for a few hours the problem still persists. Low battery power. Any ideas? Thanks

bmw e90 low battery symptoms